Oggi parliamo delle sostanze che permettono ai prodotti detergenti di "pulirci": i tensioattivi. Cito Lola ( http://lola.forumup.it/about825-lola.html ): Il tensioattivo funziona così: la sua molecola ha due parti che si comportano in modo diverso: una parte appena vede un po' di grasso gli si aggancia, ma l'altra odia il grasso e si attacca all'acqua. Quindi se tu passi del bagnoschiuma sulla pelle sporca, ogni molecola del tensioattivo si attaccherà al grasso della pelle; quando arriva l'acqua di risciacquo, l'altra parte della molecola, che odia il grasso e se ne era rimasta fuori, si attacca all'acqua, e viene portata via insieme al grasso che le è rimasto attaccato. Pelle pulita finalmente!!!
Per capire come riconoscere questi tensioattivi e per sapere se sono buoni o dannosi vi propongo l'articolo di seguito, preso dal famoso sito SaiCosaTiSpalmi, e per la precisione qui -> http://www.saicosatispalmi.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=190&Itemid=12
Abstract: surfactants, simply, are substances composed of molecules that "melt" the dirt and do away with the water slide. In cosmetics, surfactants are all cleansing products like shampoo, shower gel, soap for intimate, liquid soap, gel detergents and so on.
Surfactants most popular, at least "hearsay" are the SLS and SLES, which stand for Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. On their flowing long-email hoax spreads alarmism supporting their carcinogenicity. In reality, this claim was repeatedly denied by Fabrizio Zago, creator of the industrial chemical biodizionario. What is true, argues, however, is that the Sodium Laureth Sulfate contains some oil molecules, and the Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is very aggressive.
to lift the unjust treatment SLES, Zago awarded him a yellow sticker: Caution! It is not the best possible substance may present some problems, but overall it is preferable to many others.
Another class of surfactants consists of the Betaine (eg cocamidopropyl betaine), all-vegetable origin.
These molecules until recently, had been marked a beautiful green dot.
It was believed then that they were far preferable based detergent surfactants such as betaine, rather than based on sles.
For some time, however, has been updated biodizionario also assigned to betaine a yellow dot, because despite the original "green" issues seem to arise on their biodegradability.
then I put some questions to Fabrizio obtaining precise answers as always:
Barbara on the environment, taking into account not only the substance but also the final production process, whichever is less impact?
Fabrizio: The sles has an environmental impact ten times less than betaine. I would say is as toxic to aquatic organisms as the production process. However, the betaine contains less oil in Silesia and then the same classification seems balanced. The fact is that the SLES has been and continues to be demonized to no avail. It 's a substance readily biodegradable in an aerobic environment, does not accumulate in sludge will degrade very well in anaerobic environment, it costs very little and often is of vegetable origin.
What you want?
The only defect which is to have a small share of oil and enjoy bad press.
B.: The skin I guess it depends from the overall formulation, namely the addition of substances that go to balance the aggressiveness of the surfactants (betaine is also very delicate right?). Am I right?
F.: You are right, without considering all of the wording can not say much. But do this: if betaine is then simultaneously with sles is virtually irreplaceable in the sense that breaks down the aggressiveness of Silesia, which is itself clearly. If the formula does not sontiene sles or other anionic then his action is close to disaster, because it is not propio delicatissima, anzi.
B.: La domanda spontanea a questo punto è: perchè allora la certificazione Icea-Aiab inserisce lo SLES tra le sostanze non ammesse?
F.: Perché ha una parte petrolifera ed io, in tutti i casi non l'avrei esclusa perché questo comporta non solo grandissimi problemi al formulatore ma anche costi da boutique!
Le cose sono sempre più complesse di quanto appaiano, dunque, e la strada per formule rispettose del pianeta e della pelle passa attraverso la capacità di mettersi continuamente in discussione. E' fondamentale ragionare sempre con dati alla mano, e non prendere mai nessuna certificazione come oro colato, ma considerarla solo uno tra gli strumenti che abbiamo per fare del nostro meglio in materia di cosmesi e inquinamento.
Ora dovreste avere le idee più chiare sul'argomento, ma comunque vi invito a leggere anche altri articoli al riguardo:
- "nozioni tecniche" su wikipedia -> http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tensioattivo
- altre "nozioni tecniche -> http://www.doctorsegalla.com/newsletter/evolution03.php
- discussione dal forum di Lola -> http://lola.forumup.it/about825-lola.html
NB PART OF THIS ARTICLE IS NOT 'IN MY PROPERTY,' And I brought it here because 'I HAVE NOT NOTICED THAT NO WRITTEN OR REPRODUCTION PROHIBITED. IF YOU HAVE ANY BREACH OF ANY LAW OR THE LAW, THE PARTIES PLEASE let me see, it will provide 'NOW TO AMEND THE POST.
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